Proceedings of the 17th Conference of the International Commission for Ethnological Food Research, Oslo, Norway, September 15-19, 2008

The papers included in this volume deal with meeting points, negotiations, and the exercise of choice, with regard to food, drink and meals in historical and contemporary situations. They also focus on museums as public institutions and their role in the conservation of material and non-material data about foodways. Their obligation to interpret and transmit cultural information about food and drink to a wider public, by means of exhibitions and other forms of museum presentations, is also discussed.


Patricia Lysaght, University College Dublin, Ireland

President of the International Commission for Ethnological Food Research

Contents

Preface 9
Inger Jensen and Ann Helene Bolstad Skjelbred

Food and Meals at Cultural Crossroads: Introduction 11
Patricia Lysaght

Keynote Lecture

Goat Cheese and Mangoes: Negotiating Belonging and National Pride through Food 24
Thomas Michael Walle

Part I: Regional Food, Meal Systems and Health Regimes

A New Ascension of Regional Food 36
Konrad Köstlin (Germany)

Cultural Crossroads at the Dining Table: Regional Food as a Signpost? 46
Sonja Böder (Germany)

Food at Cultural Crossroads: Dietary Habits in Cyprus under Ottoman Rule (1570-1878) as Perceived by Foreign Travellers 56
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou (Cyprus)

Meg Dods (1826) and a Celebration of Scottish Food 72
Una A. Robertson (Scotland)

Arranging the Meal: The Middle-Class Three-Course Meal in Central Europe – The Soup Course in Hungary, from the Eighteenth to the Twentieth Centuries 82
Eszter Kisbán (Hungary)

Lamb’s Testicles (‘värakoddar’) 92
Nils-Arvid Bringéus (Sweden)

Regimina Sanitatis by Month and by Season 98
Johanna Maria van Winter (The Netherlands)


Keynote Lecture

Things, Senses, Practices: Experiencing Cultural Crossroads through Hospitality and the Culinary System 112
Bernhard Tschofen (Germany)

Part II: Food, Meals and Hospitality at Cultural and Culinary Crossroads

La Vigilia Italo-Americana: Transmitting Authenticity amid Social Change 124
Michael A. Di Giovine (USA)

Old Country and Immigrant Foodways in Norway and the United States: Evidence from Cookbooks 137
Deborah L. Miller (USA)

Food and Meals as Expressions of Cultural Identity in Norway 144
Eldbjørg Fossgard (Norway)

Ritual Interaction and Menu Adaptation: A Case Study of the Birthday Party in Multicultural School Classes in Oslo 151
Erika Ravne Scott (Norway)

Is Pasta Becoming the New Potato? – The Rise in Popularity of Pasta in Ireland 159
Déirdre D’Auria (Ireland)

Part III: Transforming Food and Foodways: Cultural and Culinary Interactions

Japanese Cuisine as a Product of Cultural and Historical Crossroads 174
Naoto Minami (Japan)

Cultural Crossroads: An Introduction to the Foodways of Georgia 178
Ulrica Söderlind (Sweden) and Nikoloz Tskvitinidze (Georgia)

The Mountain Population of the ‘Pays des Ecrins’: Changes in Lifestyles and Foodways in the Twentieth Century 188
Aurélie Rousselot-Pailley (France)

Changes in Foodways in Latvia during the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries: Interaction between Different Periods and Cultures 201
Linda Dumpe (Latvia)

The Food Culture of the Social Elite and Its Expansion among Other Social Groups in Slovenia 208
Maja Godina Golija (Slovenia)

Part IV: Food, Food Culture and Diet: Transmission of Knowledge and Contemporary Projects

Housekeeping Schools and Courses and Changes in the Nutritional Culture in Hungary in the Twentieth Century 218
Judit Knézy (Hungary)

Academic Food Culture: Taking Gastronomy from Craftsmanship to Science 240
Håkan Jönsson and Richard Tellström (Sweden)

Infant Feeding and Professional Advice in Early Twentieth Century Greece: The Transition from Breast-feeding Only to Complimentary Feeding 251
Antonia-Leda Matalas and Fani Pechlivani (Greece)

Negotiations at the Crossroads: Compromises Concerning Food and the Meal among Contemporary Swedish Consumers 259
Maria Frostling-Henningsson (Sweden)

A Recipe and Its Context 269
Ulrika Wolf-Knuts (Finland)

Part V: Foodways, Exhibitions and Museums: (Re)Presentation, Context, Transformation and Cultural Interpretation

Exhibiting Food: International Exhibitions as Cultural Crossroads 1851–1914 280
Jill Steward (UK)

Setting a Place at the Table for Food in American Museums 294
Shirley Cherkasky (USA)

Foodways in Museums: Representation and Interpretation 301
Yvonne R. Lockwood (USA)

Project – Food: How to Make an Exhibition 310
Nives Rittig-Beljak and Mirjana Randic (Croatia)

A Perspective on Collections of a Regional Open-Air Museum in South Norway 319
Kirsten K. Bertheau Nøklebye (Norway)

List of Contributors 332

International Commission for Ethnological Food Research: Conferences, Themes and Publications (1970-2010) 338


ISBN 978-82-7099-571-4, 341 pages, paperback
Format: 17x24 cm, weight 0,7 kg, year of publication 2010. Language: English